Atlas pants by StyleArc

I have made a grand total of two pairs of trousers. The first pair was my very second make after more than a decade-long sewing hiatus — which, ahem… we are not going to talk about. The second was the Smooth Sailing Trousers by Wearing History, which I still have and wear. I’ve been putting off making more because, if I’m honest, trouser fitting terrifies me. But it’s time to face my fears and make some Wellington weather appropriate trousers.

I like sewing from patterns I haven't used before because it somehow feels more productive — and I always see it as a chance to learn something new. So off I went, looking for a trouser pattern that would catch my eye. I had just one requirement - loose, wide-legged slacks in the style of Katharine Hepburn or Rita Hayworth. In the end, I chose the Atlas Pants by StyleArc. They seemed different enough to deserve a spot in my wardrobe but still ticked the “loose and comfy” box. I also used to have a linen trousers without a waistband, which I used to wear when I wanted to have have a more modern look. Plus, I was very intrigued by the oversized twisted tucks (or… are they still pleats?).

Fitting and adjustments

Just like with my first Those-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named trousers, the Atlas toile had too much fabric in the back. After many hours on YouTube (and copious amounts of accidental bum-pitching), I learnt that I needed a flat-butt adjustment. Essentially, I took out darts radiating from the side seams toward the center back. In total, about 9 cm came out.

I also used my own pocket pattern. Mainly because last year my phone fell out of my skirt pocket and broke, so ever since I only use an extra deep pocket pattern that will keep my phone save. Other than that, no alterations were needed.

Fabric

I used a few meters of grey linen from The Fabric Store that had been sitting in my collection for a while. I bought it a few years ago, so I’m not entirely sure if they still carry it that colour. I think this is what I used.

Construction

Both side seams (pockets included) and the front crotch were finished with French seams. The fabric was lightweight enough that I knew it wouldn’t be a problem — although it did cause a minor headache later. The zipper was sewn in by hand with prick stitching and the seam was reinforced with fusible tape. You can see a pink chalk mark in the photos of the line I followed when inserting the zipper. Fusible interfacing was also used for the waistband facing but was skipped for the cuffs.

Thoughts

Let’s start with the positives. I love how different these trousers feel, but at the same time, they still fit in with the rest of my wardrobe. Those giant twisted pleats give them a modern, slightly edgy look — which is new for me! In fact I felt a bit incognito walking around Cuba Street in them the other week, a refreshing change from all the skirts I usually wear. The length is perfect for styling with my R.M. Williams boots, sandals, or derby shoes. And I’ve really fallen for this grey — it seems to go with everything I own!

Now, the not-so-great part. If you read my last blog, you might remember me mentioning leaving bigger seam allowances and a longer waistband for future size adjustments. Did I do it this time? Absolutely not. I should’ve double checked the fit more often while sewing, or even chosen a more forgiving construction method. As a result, the trousers are too big. The only place I could adjust without taking the whole thing apart is the front — thanks to the back zipper and the French seams on the sides. I did close up the pockets (i.e. made the opening smaller) slightly more than I normally would have and that helped to tighten the trousers a little bit.

The other thing I could do is to put in elastic to help and tighten it even more, however, I will be leaving them as they are. I actually don’t mind the slightly oversized fit for cooler weather — it leaves room for layering and for comfortably tucking in my jumpers. With a bit of styling, these summer linen trousers have officially turned into autumn trousers. Going forward, I think I will stick to trousers with proper waistbands and belt loops. That way, I can tighten or loosen them as needed.

One thing to note, when you are looking at the photos, please forgive the wrinkles in the trousers. I know that linen does that a lot but the colour of the fabric seems to exaggerate the wrinkles in the pictures more that in person. I tried taking photos 3 times and even after ironing they still had that "lived in look" shall we call it? So definitely they will be relegated for the very casual outings. 

As always, if you want to make these for yourself, then I have a little discount code for you. Just use TUCKSORPLEATS in the discount section. 

Lots of love and sewing, 
Liga